Michael, thank you for taking the time to talk to us a little about Opus One. Not only am I personally a big fan of Opus One, but so is the entire Tesdorpf company and our customers throughout Germany. When I was in Napa last year and saw the impressive winery, I was blown away. A visit to Opus One is truly an experience, and I'm glad I was able to experience it. The wines were unique and full of finesse.
- Marcel: Can you give us a brief introduction to yourself, where you come from, how you got into wine and when you started working for Opus One?
I was born and raised outside the small town of Gilroy, California. It is about 130km south of San Francisco. I lived and worked on my grandfather’s dairy farm from the age of 10 years. I decided to travel before going to university until I found what I wanted to be when I grew up. The first country I visited was Japan. From there I traveled through Asia, Southeast Asia, and west to Europe. I looked up a French woman, who I had met in Tokyo, when I arrived in Paris. The only French I knew was “bon voyage”. She told me if I wanted to learn to speak French, eat well, and earn money I should pick grapes. When I began working at Louis Metaireau’s Domaine du Grand Mouton I fell in love with viticulture, wine, and two-hour long lunches. I had found my calling in Muscadet.
I road bicycle around France, to Sweden, Italy, and Tamanrasset. I worked with a small commune and we designed and built displays and decorated perfume shops with products from Estee Lauder, Lancaster, and Revlon. I earned degrees and certificates in enology and viticulture from University of California, Davis and the Institute of Enology at Bordeaux. I have worked in viticulture and winemaking at Chateau Reynon, Beaulieu Vineyard, King Estate, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and I have just completed my 23rd Vintage at Opus One.
Four mentors have had an enormous impact on my professional and personal lives: My grandfather Louis Scettrini, Andre Tchelistcheff, Warren Winiarski, and Denis Dubourdieu.
- If you look at the moving history of Opus one, what are the biggest differences between today and the beginning?
Beginning in 1979 there were co-winemakers representing Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi Winery. My first role at Opus One was as the director of viticulture and enology (DOVE). As the DOVE, I had day-to-day responsibilities for viticulture and winemaking and met with Patrick Leon and Tim Mondavi three times a year. The most important meeting was blending in January following the previous harvest. These two gentlemen were instrumental in my understanding of the principles and practices of viticulture and enology at Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Robert Mondavi Winery.
I was named the first sole winemaker in May 2003, and Opus One entered La Place de Bordeaux for wine destined for markets outside the United States. The percentage of wine that the 21 negociants with whom we work equals approximately 60 percent. In 2004 the first sole CEO was named, Constellation and the Sands Family purchased Robert Mondavi Winery and were welcomed by the Rothschild Family as an equal partner in Opus One. The move to La Place and the new partner in the Joint Venture marked very important and impactful changes. Also, the team at Opus One assumed greater authority and responsibility for production, sales, finance, communications, and general management of the business.
- What are the challenges for Opus One and the entire Napa Valley today, and what will they be in the future?
The biggest challenge now and in the future is the same for the entire world: Climate Change. Our fundamental responsibility is to preserve and protect the ecosystem of Napa Valley. We must work from the higher elevation of the valley to the Napa River to ensure that rainfall follows the original water ways and prevent erosion. We must work together at the winery and in the community to increase biodiversity. For example we have captured two feral queen bees, who have established hives. To ensure their success, we have planted gardens and a small orchard of fruit trees for them and our culinary team. We restored two creeks running through our vineyards and participated in a community project to restore the Napa River. Cover crops have been established to decrease temperatures in the vineyard, which will reduce the demand for water by our grapevines. We also are in our third year of working with Earthly Labs to capture carbon dioxide from fermentations.
We make classic wines that express time (season) and place (rocks and soils). This philosophy allows us to focus on the challenges Mother Nature provides, adjust to changing weather conditions, and plan for climate change over the long term. We have isolated and cultured wild yeast from each of our four Estate vineyards to deepen the expression of place and openly share ideas, principles, and practices with our neighbors.
- If you look at the last few years, which years are your personal favorites?
The 2016 Vintage was exceptional and the wine lives up to its promise. The 2018 Vintage was challenging and has developed into one of the most well-balanced and seamless Opus One wines.
- Could you tell me in two sentences what you like about the pioneer Robert Mondavi and what he stands for?
Mr. Mondavi encouraged and supported others to fulfill their dreams. He promoted wines of Napa Valley as much as he did his own, wanting success and recognition for everyone.
- What do you personally like to drink outside the USA?
I enjoy drinking many wines outside of the USA. Among them are German Riesling, White Burgundy, Sancerre, Port, South African Chenin Blanc, and Japanese Koshu.
- And what do you like to drink from Napa?
Any wines from the Oakville Winegrowers and wines from Sally Johnson Blum or Victoria Coleman.
- When our clients are in Napa, which restaurants off the beaten track are recommended?
Himalayan Sherpa Kitchen www.sthelenasherpakitchen.com
Honor Market in Yountville for scones or hot dogs
Blanchard’s Famous Fried Chicken at Savage & Cooke Restaurant www.savageandcooke.com
If you are staying in a rental house, here are two fantastic private chefs and caterers:
Chef Sarah Heller https://www.linkedin.com/in/sarah-heller-21720813b for innovative and tasty cuisine.
Cocina Severiano [email protected] for authentic and delicious Mexican Food.
- What dish goes best with 2019 Opus One?
Ribeye Cap for carnivores, Ahi Tuna or wild Salmon for pescatarians, and Mushroom Risotto for vegetarians and vegans.
