2023

Château Grand Puy Lacoste

Pauillac AOP, Grand Cru Classé, Doppelmagnum

Seit der Übernahme durch die Familie Borie im Jahre 1978 hat das Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste eine bemerkenswerte Entwicklung genommen. So wird seit über 10 Jahren auf den Einsatz von Herbiziden verzichtet. Mit 75 % dominiert Cabernet Sauvignon den Grand Vin, gefolgt von Merlot und Cabernet Franc. Daraus entsteht auf dem Château Jahr für Jahr ein Wein von aromatischer Komplexität und enormem Körperreichtum.

PRESSE

93-95 Punkte Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (William Kelley)
Aromas of cassis, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and violets introduce the 2023 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and supple wine that's seamless and sensual, with good depth at the core, beautifully integrated tannins and a lively, charming profile. It's a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot that was picked between September 11-28. 
This 90-hectare estate (some 60 hectares of which are in production), situated in a single block on a gravel dome around the château, has long been a favorite among Bordeaux insiders. Under Emeline Borie's direction, subtle refinements have been made: more than 100 soil pits were dug to better understand the château's geology; herbicides have never been used here, but now 20 hectares are devoted to a trial of organic farming; since 2013, a vertical press is used; and since 2012, the new vintage goes to barrel immediately after malolactic fermentation, before being blended early in the new year. Today's wines are a touch more immediately charming and structurally polished than the Grand-Puy-Lacoste of 15 years ago, yet they have lost none of their classic Cabernet-driven Pauillac character; and a subtle evolution in cooperage choices, favoring lighter toasts, means their oak has never been so well-integrated out of the gates.

95 Punkte Falstaff (Peter Moser)
Dunkles Rubingranat, opaker Kern, violette Reflexe, zarte Randaufhellung. Zart nach Orangenzesten, reife Kirschen, ein Hauch von Cassis, feine Edelholzwürze, einladendes Bukett. Saftig, frische rote Frucht, finessenreich strukturiert, reife, runde Tannine, salzig-mineralisch, wirkt leichtfüßig, bleibt lange haften, delikater Stil mit Frische und Länge.

93-95 Punkte Vinous (Neal Martin)
The 2023 Grand Puy Lacoste was picked September 11 to 28 at 48hL/ha and matured in 75% new oak. It has a classic "GPL" bouquet with blackberry, pencil box and light marine scents, obviously not as powerful as the previous vintage, yet in typical style, beautifully defined and focused. Just a touch of cracked black pepper surfaces with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle but insistent grip, just a light bitter edge lending tension and nerve. I perceive good depth here, but this is not a powerhouse of a Pauillac (is GPL ever?). It fans out toward the finish whilst maintaining control. There’s an impressive linearity to this wine, and thus I suspect it will require less bottle-age compared to recent vintages.